Keeping and breeding cherry shrimp

Short answer: cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) are one of the easiest invertebrates to keep and breed, provided the water is stable and free of copper. Give them a mature, cycled tank, a gentle sponge filter that will not suck up babies, steady parameters, and a food source of biofilm and algae topped up with a quality shrimp food. In stable water with enough minerals for moulting, a small colony will breed on its own with no special effort. The two things that go wrong are unstable water and copper-based medications — avoid both and the rest is easy.

The tank they want

A shrimp colony can live happily in a tank as small as 5 US gallons, though a little more volume makes the water easier to keep stable. Neocaridina are adaptable and tolerate a wide range of ordinary tap-water hardness, which is what makes them so much easier than the fussier Caridina shrimp. What matters most is stability — avoid big swings in temperature or chemistry.

• Filtration. A sponge filter is the standard choice. It provides biological filtration and grazing surface, and it will not draw in shrimplets the way an intake can.
• Maturity. Add shrimp to an established tank, not a brand-new one. They feed on the biofilm and micro-algae that build up over the first weeks. If you are still cycling, read how to cycle a new aquarium first.
• Minerals. Shrimp need dissolved minerals — mainly calcium and magnesium — to moult and grow a new shell. In soft water a shrimp-specific remineraliser or a cuttlebone helps; bring us a water sample if you are not sure where yours sits.

Botanicals and biofilm

Shrimp graze constantly on the film of micro-organisms that grows on surfaces. Botanicals help enormously here: catappa (Indian almond) leaves and other botanicals break down slowly, feed biofilm, and release tannins that many keepers find shrimp colour up over. Drop a leaf or two in and let it decay naturally — it doubles as food and cover for shrimplets.

Feeding

Beyond biofilm, feed a small amount of a proper shrimp food a few times a week, such as Fluval Shrimp Granules, plus the occasional blanched vegetable. Feed sparingly — leftover food fouls the water fast in a small tank. Remove anything uneaten after a few hours.

Breeding

Breeding needs almost no intervention. In stable water a mature female carries a clutch of eggs under her tail (she is then called “berried”) and fans them for a few weeks until miniature shrimp hatch, already looking like tiny adults — there is no larval stage to feed. To build a colony: keep the water stable, do not keep fish that eat shrimplets, and be patient. Numbers climb steadily once they start.

Keeping them alive: copper and tankmates

The single biggest killer of shrimp is copper, which hides in many fish medications. Never dose a shrimp tank without confirming from the label that the product is invertebrate-safe — our guide on shrimp-safe medications explains why. For tankmates, keep shrimp alone or with very small, peaceful fish; most fish will eat shrimplets, and some will hunt adults. Browse our current stock in the shrimp collection, and ask us before pairing them with any fish.

Written by the team at Tropical Fish Imports in Lethbridge, Alberta. Last reviewed August 2026.

Want help choosing a first colony or checking your water for shrimp? Bring in a sample or your questions — visit the shop, call 403-380-4506, or send us an email.